Tasmania's Bay of Fires
Mark and Vicki Norek, founders of walk operator Life’s an Adventure, have a long association with Tasmania. Mark was born on the north coast and for many years he and Vicki have owned a waterside property at remote Ansons Bay on Tasmania’s renowned Bay of Fires.
Not surprisingly then, one of Life’s an Adventure’s earliest walks - first offered more than 15 years ago - was on the Bay of Fires. Today, it’s still one of LAA’s marquee walks.
It’s also one of LAA’s most popular walks and Cathy and I are lucky to squeeze into a departure in late November. We’ve dipped our toes into the area before but never managed to do a multi-day walk.
As the departure day approaches, we’re champing at the bit!
Stumpys Bay to Deep Creek
The LAA trip starts with an overnight stay in Launceston. This is to allow an early departure on the following morning, but also means that those who arrive in time can sample some of Launceston’s attractions such as the wonderful stroll up Cataract Gorge or Boag’s Brewery.
Next morning our group assembles in central Launceston. There are nine guests, plus guides Glenn, Tim and Kayleigh. Glenn and Tim are very experienced, long-term guides, while Kayleigh is transitioning from water-based guiding to walk guiding. We’re soon to learn that we’re very fortunate to have these three looking after us.
We also soon realise that we’ve lucked out with our fellow guests - Rob and Caroline, an English couple (now living in Portugal); Ann, a solo traveller from the Sunshine Coast; Kristy and teenage son Archer, also from the Sunshine Coast and Vanessa and Kath, friends from Sydney. All are enthusiastic, sociable and (obviously) keen walkers.
The drive from Launceston to our trailhead at Stumpys Bay takes a couple of hours. It takes you into Tasmania’s far north-east, a remote, sparsely populated corner of the State. There’s some farmland but much more bush and few settlements.
We stop in Bridport to pay our respects to the last barista till St Helens, then head east into Mount William National Park. Stumpys Bay is in the northern part of Mt William National Park. It’s a long bay and we’re immediately struck by the bright quartzite sand.
Our walk today is from Stumpys Bay to Deep Creek which is about 14 km. It’s mainly on the beach but occasionally there are short forays inland. We amble along at a leisurely rate and Glenn stops regularly to show us sea-drift matter washed up on the shore and to explain the history and geology of the region. His best finds are a weedy sea dragon and shark egg cases.
Glenn and Kayleigh have promised us an idyllic swimming spot and we reach it mid-afternoon. The sun’s out and while a breeze has kept a lid on the temperature Ann, Glenn and I go for a dip. I last all of 15 seconds and come out tingling from the chilling experience.
The day’s walk concludes at Deep Creek. To reach our mini-bus we remove footwear and wade across the creek. The cold water is soothing to hot, tired feet.
Overnight at Ansons Bay
At the mini-bus, Tim awaits with an esky full of ice and drinks. Our overnight accommodation at Ansons Bay is only a 15 minute drive away. Barely time to finish our chosen beverage.
Ansons Bay is a vast body of water joined to the Tasman Sea by a narrow channel. It’s also the name of the small township spread out along its western shore. The houses are typical Tasmanian holiday shacks, many looking just as they would have 50 years ago. Our guides draw up to a dilapidated cabin and announce our arrival. Nine faces fall before the guides start cracking up and we realise we’ve been had!
In fact, our accommodation is a charming large residence that has direct bay access. Its most popular feature is a large deck with a jacuzzi and fire-pit facing the bay. It feels like you’re at a friend’s well-equipped holiday house - very comfortable with a relaxed and informal vibe. Pre-dinner drinks and nibbles on the deck are a highlight of the trip.
Our all-rounder guides show themselves to be dab hands in the kitchen serving up restaurant standard seafood, chicken and salads. Including the wine, everything show-cases produce of the region.
Deep Creek to Ansons Bay
The next day we have a choice of a 17km or 13km walk. Both involve walking right into our accommodation back at Ansons Bay.
A highlight today is Eddystone Point and Eddystone Lighthouse. The lighthouse was constructed from the granite rocks that line the coast and that are now so familiar to us. The roughly hewn and unpainted exterior makes the lighthouse feel like an extension of its rugged locale.
There’s a lot of variety in today’s walk, including several coves where, remarkably, the sand has been entirely displaced by shells of every conceivable description.
We also find some washed-up giant kelp and marvel at its “holdfast tendrils” that attach so tightly to the host rock that the rock often “gives” before the kelp.
Finally, we climb a sand-dune to find Ansons Bay stretched out below. Our destination looks close but we need to circumnavigate half the bay to reach it!
Tonight we feast on lamb harissa and various accompaniments. Over dinner we share reflections on the day’s highlights. It’s interesting to hear the things that grabbed different people.
Binalong Bay to Dora Point
Our third walking day starts at picturesque Binalong Bay, located at the southern end of the Bay of Fires. We head south around well-vegetated headlands pausing frequently as our guides identify flora of interest.
However, our focus soon shifts back to the water as someone has spotted whales! We’re lucky; the migration south of humpback whales is almost over by late November. But, happily, there are some laggards and we get excellent sightings of four humpbacks, including a mother and her calf.
At Dora Point, near the entrance to the bay that St Helens sits on, our walking on this trip sadly comes to an end. Our fine dining hasn’t ended though as we then lunch at a stylish wharf-side restaurant in St Helens. We’ve created a WhatsApp group and we spend the time at lunch submitting our best photos to the group.
Our guides - Glenn, Tim and Kayleigh - have been magnificent. Their knowledge and enthusiasm for the Bay of Fires is truly impressive. Their workload is heavy on this trip but they maintained a climate of fun and informality. They were also good judges of the amount of information to impart. Most people want a balance between learning and relaxation and they got that balance perfect.
Back in Launceston it feels like we’ve been gone longer than three days. I sense we’re all feeling enlivened by the Bay of Fires and the experiences LAA has delivered. We’re tired but our farewells and thanks are fervent and heartfelt.
