Mid-May 2024 - Springtime in the Dolomites

The Dolomites in Spring

Our Lake Garda walk took us down the western edge of the Dolomites and into the Brenta Dolomites. (Strangely, the Brenta Dolomites are located, on their own, to the west of the rest of the Dolomites.) Whilst May is still a bit early for a full Dolomites experience, we were so close we couldn’t resist dipping in for a taste.

So, we scheduled three days at Lago di Braies and two days in Cortina D’Ampezzo.

Lago di Braies is situated at the northern end of the Dolomites, not far from the Italian/Austrian border. The classic Dolomites walk, Alta Via 1, commences at Lago di Braies.

Cortina, known as ‘The Queen of the Dolomites’, is right in amidst the Dolomites. Cortina, together with Milan, is hosting the 2026 Winter Olympics.

Lago di Braies

Lago di Braies is one of the world’s most beautiful lakes. It’s encircled by forested mountains which plunge directly into the water. The lake is famous for its turquoise green hue and, in still weather, its crystal clear reflections of the surrounding mountains and forests.

Our Lago di Braies stay ran from Sunday to Tuesday. The Sunday was a beautiful Spring day and, as happens the world over, when Spring, sun and the weekend coincide, people come out to play. All day, there was a stream of walkers strolling happily around the lake. Most seemed to be locals; they were all in high spirits.

The Monday and Tuesday were much quieter. On one of those days, Craig decided to test the conditions up high. His report follows:

“Lago di Braies is situated at about 1,500 metres. The first rifugio on the Alta Via 1 is Rifugio Biella at 2,300m. I knew there would be snow from about 2,000m and I knew that to get to Biella I’d have to climb over Forcella Sora Forno at 2,388m, but I thought the rifugio may still have been a manageable walk. I was wrong.

Shortly above 2,000m, I came across deep snow drifts and began sinking in to knee level. Not having gaiters or overpants, I probably would’ve turned around then, but I teamed up with three enthusiastic Germans and pushed on further. At about 2,200m, we were heading into a gully and the snow looked even deeper. At that point I decided that getting to Rifugio Biella was going to be an ordeal. I farewelled my new friends and turned back.

That evening, I ran into the three Germans. They looked exhausted. They’d carried on for over two hours after I left them before giving up. Interestingly, they hadn’t made Rifugio Biella either.”

So, the take-away is - in May in the Dolomites, stick to walks that top-out at about 2,000 metres. There are plenty of them and the next day we did a beauty, being a circuit walk around Monte Nero. Towards the end, it even had a refreshment stop in an idyllic location amongst alpine meadows and forest.

Cortina d’Ampezzo

Cortina has long been the playground of the rich and famous, particularly in the ski season. The Old Town has charm (if you ignore the designer boutiques), with its prominent church steeple and historic mountain hotels.

In May, Cortina is a town recuperating from the onslaught of the ski season and preparing itself for the almost equally busy summer season. Some businesses take the opportunity to grab a break. All of this contributes to the town and region having a laid-back, half-closed feel.

You also have to remember that, throughout the Alps, Spring weather is very changeable. You will get rained upon at some stage! But with good wet weather gear you can still get out, and when the showers pass and the sun bursts through you’ll be treated to dramatic skies and sparkling landscapes.

Cortina has numerous walks below the 2,000 metre level. Initially, there might be a slight sense of disappointment that some of the region’s signature walks are inaccessible but really it’s just a change of mindset that’s needed. Views of the Cinque Torri, Tofana di Rozes, Croda da Lago and Marmolada are just as good from 1,800m as they are from 2,200m.

Our walks mainly focused on the valleys west and south-west of Cortina. We put together some routes that don’t stray too high but still provide vistas of the area’s landmarks. The Dolomites are as awesome as ever. The classic look of sheer cliff-faces leading to serrated peaks and ridges is repeated in different patterns. We got downpours, thick mists, rainbows and full sun. It was all very enlivening.

If shopping and crowds are important to you, May might not be the time to visit Cortina. If quiet trails, fresh weather walking, wildflowers, river rapids and Spring growth appeal, book for Spring.