Early May 2024 - Italy's Ligurian Coast and the Cinque Terre

Italy’s Ligurian Coast is best known for the Portofino peninsula and, a bit further south, the Cinque Terre. Cinque Terre, meaning five lands, refers to five colourful coastal villages - Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore. These villages are located on a 12 km stretch of mountainous coastline in far north-eastern Italy.

Walking between the Cinque Terre villages is an extremely popular visitor activity. With good reason - both the coastline and the villages are jaw-droppingly attractive. Even the most inept photographer produces eye-catching images.

The walking is quite strenuous, with steep ascents and descents but as the Cinque Terre distances are not great many people manage to huff and puff through two or three of the villages.

Walking on the Ligurian Coast is a lot more than the relatively short Cinque Terre stretch. A much larger length of the coastline, and the surrounding hills, are part of the Cinque Terre National Park. The whole area was made a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999.

The Cinque Terre National Park provides many opportunities for multi-day walks. Some of the walks stick to the coast while others combine the coast with the hinterland hills. Another common walk itinerary combines one or two day’s walking on the Portofino peninsula (including the stunning Portofino itself) with the Cinque Terre National Park.

Our Visit

We visited the Ligurian Coast in early May 2024. Over our six days in the region, the weather hovered between high teens and low twenties. Perfect walking weather, especially given the area’s rollercoaster terrain. This is ‘mountain goat’ territory.

We decided to concentrate our walking efforts along the coast, between Deiva Marina at the northern end and the historic port town of Portovenere at the southern end. In between, the walking paths led us through a mix of dense woodland and tiered gardens. Regular headlands provide exceptional panoramas up and down the coast, often with alluring glimpses of the neighbouring village.

Typically, our day started with an upwards hike out of a coastal town, followed by skirting a terraced mountainside, passing through small traditional hamlets (some with tempting cafes) and finally concluding with a descent into another lively seaside village. Paths are well-marked on the whole and can be walked in either direction. The local vegetation often provides welcome shade. Vibrant bougainvillea, oleander, jasmine and poppies abound.

Interestingly, the towns and villages each have their own distinct character and appearance despite being located relatively close to one another.

The Cinque Terre towns are particularly photogenic. Monterosso has an attractive, old town precinct set on a crescent bay with a good swimming beach. Vernazza is pint sized by comparison but outrageously picturesque. Its main street curves downwards toward the ancient port which is framed beautifully by a domed church and a stone fort. Corniglia is perched precariously high upon rugged clifftops and comprises a maze of narrow lanes full of eateries and shops. Similar to Vernazza, the pastel towns of Manarola and Riomaggiore seem to tumble down towards their small ports on the shoreline.

However, the non-Cinque Terre towns are not to be overlooked and can offer respite from the crowds. Bonnasola is a pretty seaside village favoured by Italian holidaymakers. The morning we visited, the Bonnasola focaccia shop was doing a roaring trade. Walking through the hamlet of Framura is akin to walking back in time. Navigating its quaint streets and small squares, we pass by drinking fountains, wayside shrines and a couple of cafes. Levanto is a large town with plenty of elegant architecture which speaks to a wealthy bygone era. The imposing town of Portovenere sits dramatically on a rocky headland and features the ancient clifftop fortress of Castello Doria.

While this is a tourist region, there are still many signs of more traditional ways of life. Regular ringing of church bells is a prime example. At one town, the bells chimed at 7.30am each morning, even on weekends - no sleep-ins allowed! Another town featured chimes more reminiscent of a cheerful pantomime musical.

Homes in the Old Town precincts provide another sense of going back in time. People live in small apartments, cheek to jowl, and congregate together in the small town squares for a drink and a chat. Rudimentary clothes-lines are attached outside most windows with drying washing proudly on display.

Another reminder of past pre-supermarket times is the way that every spare inch of land is planted with herbs, vegetables and fruit. The Mediterranean diet is alive and well on the Ligurian Coast. Local trattorias have a wealth of local market gardens to source their ingredients from.

Trains, buses and ferries along the Ligurian Coast assist with any necessary transport logistics. Helpfully, the Cinque Terre Treno MS Card provides unlimited train travel between Levanto and La Spezia plus access to the two chargeable hiking paths (Monterosso to Vernazza and Vernazza to Corniglia). Make sure to catch at least one ferry between the Ligurian towns as the view from the sea gives a completely different perspective to this sublime coastline.

Thankfully, enterprising locals have tapped into the walking world. Cafes appear when you least expect them, even atop the steep hilltops so as to maximise the astounding views. Then there is the choice of how to reward oneself - crema di caffe, limonesoda or gelato?

Takeaways

The walking trails linking the Cinque Terre villages (and the villages themselves) are very popular - even in early May. To avoid queues on the trails and, even worse, boisterous school groups, it’s essential to hit these trails early.
Sentiero Azzurro (Blue Trail) is the traditional walking route between the Cinque Terre villages. The section of the Sentiero Azzurro that links Riomaggiore and Manarola (also known as Via dell’Amore) has been closed for a number of years as a result of storm damage. It’s due to re-open in July 2024. From time to time, segments of the Sentiero Azzurro are closed as a result of erosion or storms. Don’t let that deter you! There are plenty of trails in the area that still allow you to access the Cinque Terre villages.
Outside the short stretch of coastline housing the Cinque Terre villages, the walking trails are not busy in May and are a delight. The coastline scenery is just as good here.
Don’t miss the walk south of Riomaggiore to Portovenere. The natural scenery is outstanding and Portovenere is often referred to as the sixth of the Cinque Terre villages.