Craig Henderson Europe '23 Part 10 - Picos de Europa
17 September 2023 - Santander, northern Spain; day prior to start of Picos de Europa Day Walks
The Picos de Europa run parallel to the Atlantic coast in northern Spain. Only 25 kilometres in from the coast, the name of these mountains is said to derive from the fact that the peaks (a number of which exceed 2,500m) were often the first sight of land for Spanish sailors completing an Atlantic crossing. The region has long been recognised as an area of outstanding natural beauty and in 1918 it became Spain’s first national park.
The Picos are made up of three limestone ‘massifs’ - elevated regions housing a number of summits. The massifs are divided by steep gorges and narrow valleys, the sides of which are often topped by imposing cliffs. Lush pastures and forest fill the gorges and the lower reaches of the valleys, but higher up the harsh limestone environment dominates. The central massif is generally regarded as the most spectacular and is certainly crammed with jagged peaks and serrated ridges. In winter, the high plateaux of the three massifs are generally cut off by snow.
There are numerous walking trails through the Picos and many people use one or more of the several villages that lie around the perimeter as a base from which to undertake day or half-day walks. That’s what we’re doing. We’re focusing on the central massif and have chosen Fuentes De in the south and Las Arenas in the north as our bases.
My companions on these walks are son Ryan and daughter Zara. They have been travelling in France and northern Spain and we rendezvoused in San Sebastián a couple of days ago. They’re up for some walking but I detect some trepidation as to what I might have in store for them.
18 September 2023 - Day 1 of Picos de Europa Day Walks: PR25 Vega de Liordes (11 km; 3.5h)
At least for Day 1, what I’d planned was moderate because I intended that we get the Fuentes De cable car and then undertake PR24 Puertos de Aliva (‘PR’ stands for Pequeño Recorrido, meaning a short hiking route). The cable car takes most of the climbing out of the walk. It’s still a 4.5 hour walk but a fair bit is downhill.
However, when we get to the cable car station we’re told that the cable car is closed due to high wind. We hastily scan the map for a Plan B and come up with PR25 Vega de Liordes. This is a 5.5 hour walk, involving over a 1,000m of ascent and 1,000m of descent. Hmmm, a bit more than the introductory walk I’d intended.
By the time we set off it’s after 1.30pm. By 3.30pm we’re two-thirds through the climb. We pause for a late lunch and to take stock. The weather has turned; the temperature has dropped, it’s windy and ominous clouds are gathering. We can see the ridge line we’re aiming for and it looks quite exposed. If we proceed in these conditions, it could take us 3 or 3.5 hours to complete the walk. We decide to turn back. It starts raining as we descend and we feel very comfortable with our call.
Our accommodation for the night is at Parador de Fuentes De. A parador is a mountain hostel. This one is quite remote and surrounded by mountains, woods and pasture, but is very comfortable. It’s tastefully decorated with wood and leather furniture and has a huge guest lounge.
19 September 2023 - Day 2 of Picos de Europa Day Walks: Bulnes to Poncebos; Sotres walk (9 km; 2.5h)
As I had not delivered with the cable car yesterday, I alter plans a bit today to build a funicular into the walk. Nothing the wind can do to stop a funicular carrying you through a mountain to an elevated spot! In our case, the funicular takes us from Poncebos to the tiny mountain hamlet of Bulnes, saving us some 500m of climbing.
Bulnes is an attractive village, nestled in a well-treed mountain basin. It has no car access, so prior to the funicular it would have been a very sleepy hollow. Today, Bulnes has a handful of cafeterias/restaurants but it’s managed to retain its charm. From Bulnes, the GR202 delivers you back down to Poncebos via a relatively straight forward gorge trail.
Our final walk destination today is Sotres. Sotres lies just to the east of the central massif of the Picos. A few walk operators use Sotres as a base so I was curious to see it. It’s mid-afternoon when we arrive and, not surprisingly, it’s very quiet. We do a circular walk around the foothills that surround the village, seeing barely a soul. This would certainly be an ideal base for those seeking peace and solitude.
Our overnight location is Arenas de Cabrales and we head there now. Arenas is the most popular base for the central massif and has a vibrancy. It has a good range of hotels, bars, restaurants and shops. We face up to the usual traveller dilemma in Spain - how to fend off hunger and stay awake until the eateries start serving at 7.30/8.00pm.
20 September 2023 - Day 3 of Picos de Europa Day Walks: PR3 Ruta del Cares (24 km; 6.0h)
Ruta del Cares is generally regarded as the best day walk in the Picos de Europa. It’s an ‘out and back’ route from Poncebos to Cain and then back again. Three hours walking each way is a typical walk duration.
The route follows the River Cares which has carved out a steep and stunning gorge that forms the dividing line between the central massif and the western massif. The track itself was built to provide access to hydro-electricity facilities and is an engineering feat. At times it’s a ledge that has been chiselled into the rock face, at other times it tunnels directly through the rock. No hand-rails or fences, so there’s a need to keep your wits about you.
The reputation of this walk does attract lots of walkers. We start at 9.00am and there are already many ahead of us. It doesn’t detract too much but if you can get to the start by 8.00am, you’ll get the scenery and some solitude. An early start also gives time to enjoy lunch at one of the several eateries in pretty Cain.
We have a leisurely lunch in Cain so it’s 4.00pm as we descend to the finish at Poncebos. While the gorge provides a bit of shade, the last hour or so are quite open and on a sunny day, like today, the stony track generates some heat. Back in Arenas, our feet get released from their ovens and the ice-cream shop receives some extravagant orders.
