Craig Henderson Europe '23 Part 5 - Grindelwald Cirque

6 August 2023 - Wengen, Switzerland; day prior to start of Grindelwald Cirque

Those of you who read my description of the Tour du Mont Blanc may remember that my interest in the TMB was triggered in my mid-twenties when I came across a book by Walt Unsworth entitled ‘Classic Walks of the World’.

Walt also published Classic Walks in Europe. That book included a walk that Walt called ‘The Grindelwald Cirque’. Grindelwald is located in central Switzerland, in a valley south-east of Interlaken. The area is referred to as the Bernese Oberland and is famous for its string of glaciated mountains, including the Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau.

I’d visited Grindelwald once since reading about the Grindelwald Cirque, but only briefly. That visit had given me a sense for the route that the book described - a high-level circuit of the valley utilising paths that provide views of Interlaken, the Grindelwald valley and, of course, the mighty mountains that tower above Grindelwald.

Now, many years later, I’ve got the chance to do the walk.

You need three or four days for the walk. I had initially allowed four, with today being the first day. But the weather today is lousy so I’ve decided to start tomorrow and attempt it in three.

I’m also doing it as day walks, using Wengen as a base. It is possible to do the walk using accommodation on the route (ie different overnight spot each night). However, as the Bernese Oberland public transport system is so good (trains, gondolas, cable cars, buses), it’s possible to do it from the one base. There are a number of possibilities for the base other than Wengen, but vehicle-free Wengen appealed to me and, so far, the choice feels like a good one.

7 August 2023 - Day 1 of Grindelwald Cirque: Schynige Platte to Grosse Scheidegg (26 km; 7.5h)

The walk starts from Schynige Platte (1,967m), a mountain ridge located way above the northern side of the main entrance to the Grindelwald valley. A train transports you up to this elevated location from Wilderswil (just out of Interlaken). It’s no ordinary train. This is one of Switzerland’s highest and oldest mountain railways, having been in operation since 1893. Its maximum incline is 25%, so you sit on the edge of your wooden bench seat hoping the train and infrastructure have been updated a few times.

From the station at Schynige Platte, the route climbs gradually, providing spectacular views of Interlaken and the two great lakes that sit either side of it. It’s overcast and only 7C, but I’m soon down to one layer. The track skirts around Oberberghorn and the snow on the ground starts to increase. That doesn’t surprise me as I had thought yesterday’s weather may have delivered some snow at this height.

As I approach Berghaus Manddlenen (2,344m), the entire landscape is covered in about 10 centimetres of snow. The temperature is down to 3/4C and there are dark clouds around. Now I am surprised; yesterday delivered far more snow than I’d anticipated and the current conditions are not what I expected.

This is now an outing requiring serious attention. I catch a glimpse of two walkers a long way ahead, but other than them no one else is on the trail. I’m reasonably prepared but not to the extent that I would have been, had I foreseen these conditions. I weigh up turning back but I know the hut at Faulhorn is not too far off and that after Faulhorn the track descends rapidly. So, I push on.

By the time I get within sight of the hut at Faulhorn (2,681m), the snow is 20-30cm deep, but I’m having fun. I’m moving well and I’ve caught up to a few others. Also, the sky has lightened a bit. The Faulhorn hut is an absolute haven. Coffee and hot soup revive me and there are people there who have walked in from the direction I’m heading.

The descent to Bachalpsee is slippery but relatively easy. Bachalpsee is less than an hour from the First gondola so the number of walkers increases dramatically. I walk past the First gondola and its cliff walkway, pushing on to the col at Grosse Scheidegg. Like most cols, it’s a windy spot but there’s a restaurant there and, in my case, time for a hot drink while I await the bus down to Grindelwald.

Spectacular views of the lakes of Interlaken

7 August 2023 - Day 2 of Grindelwald Cirque: Grosse Scheidegg to Alpiglen (20 km; 6.5h)

Via cable car, gondola and bus, I retrace my steps to Grosse Scheidegg.

The day’s walk then commences with a reasonably gentle amble down to the valley floor and into Grindelwald. This section doesn’t have the drama of the previous day, but it’s a pleasant stroll through cow grazing country, past barns and holiday chalets and across a few streams. All the while, the massive bulk of one or more of the Wetterhorn, Schreckhorn and Finsteraahorn loom on your left.

From the outskirts of Grindelwald, my route takes me east to Gletscherschlucht (“glacier gorge”). There’s a good cafe/restaurant at the head of the gorge here. I’m aware that the next couple of hours are demanding so pause for refreshments.

The last segment of today’s walk is from Gletscherschlucht to Alpiglen. The signage suggest a walking time of 3h15m. This seems conservative to me until I start the climb up the gorge. It is a genuinely steep and challenging path. Several times I think I’ve got the necessary height and the track will commence its contour traverse only to see it lurch upwards once more.

Eventually the traversing arrives and with it extensive vistas down to the Grindelwald valley and then up to the mountains where yesterday’s adventures took place.

Alpiglen is an excellent finishing spot. As well as the railway station that will enable me to get back to Wengen for the night, it has a superbly located bar/cafe/restaurant. When I arrive at around 4pm, the place is full of excited walkers. And why not? The clouds are just starting to clear and snow-capped peaks are emerging all round.

8 August 2023 - Day 3 of Grindelwald Cirque: Alpiglen to Lauterbrunnen (20 km; 6.5h)

Returning to Alpiglen this morning is straightforward via a train to Kleine Scheideigg and then a second train to Alpiglen. I’m ready to start walking before 9.30am.

The leg from Alpiglen to Kleine Scheideigg is via gravel roads, but as you’re directly under the north face of the Eiger you’re happy that you’re able to gaze up at the massive, dark rock face without worrying about your footing. There is a walking trail that runs even closer to the north face (the Eigergletscher) but I’ve chosen this path as I think it gets better views.

Kleine Scheidegg is a mountain pass situated at an elevation of 2,061m. It’s the traditional place to watch climbers tackling the north face of the Eiger. There are two elegant hotels that look like they would have appealed to well-heeled armchair climbers back in the day. It’s also a junction for the mountain railway and today, at 11am, it’s busy.

The route then descends to Wengen via Biglenalp, Mettlenalp and Allmend. This stretch provides wonderful views of Monch and Jungfrau, the Lauterbrunnen valley, Murren and finally Wengen. Within a few hundred metres of Kleine Scheidegg, the crowd has been left behind and I’ve got the alpine meadows and the views to myself.

Wengen is a delight. It nestles into a plateau at 1,274m. It’s car-free and there’s a sizeable park midway along its main street. The main street and the park combine to provide me with a blissful apfelstrudel experience.

The final stage of today and the Grindelwald Cirque is the one hour descent to Lauterbrunnen. It’s a steep descent but if your knees are up to it the views down the Lauterbrunnen valley make it worthwhile.

So ends a remarkable taste of the Swiss high country. Walt’s route lived up to expectations and I got a reminder of the care needed in the alps.