Craig Henderson Europe '23 Part 2 - Hadrian's Wall Path

24 June 2023 - Carlisle; day prior to start of Hadrian’s Wall Path

Hadrian’s Wall Path is one of the United Kingdom’s National Trails. It traverses Britain from Wallsend on the outskirts of Newcastle, west to Bowness-on-Solway. Given that I’ll be crossing Britain via Wainwright’s famous Coast to Coast path in a week or so, why incorporate Hadrian’s Wall Path into this walk safari?

In short, ‘cos it’s a hoot! The remnants of Hadrian’s Wall and its associated forts, milecastles, watch towers and turrets constitute the largest Roman archeological feature in Britain. I love the concept of a path that, to the extent possible, follows the course of the ancient wall. Out there as a walker you can actually get into the heads of the Roman architects and builders. You can see how they used the natural landscape features to their advantage and you can sense the intimidatory effect of the giant built form on the unruly “barbarians” to the north.

Also, I’m not proposing to do the entire walk. The entire route, running from Wallsend to Bowness-on-Solway is a distance of 135 km. Whilst I’m sure the parts I’m skipping have their appeal, I’m focusing on the middle section where the Roman remains are concentrated. This is the section with the UNESCO World Heritage Sites and the best preserved portions of the Wall.

So, the plan is to train from Carlisle to Hexham, walk north from Hexham, meet Hadrian’s Wall Path at St Oswald’s Hill Head and then follow the Path for 65 km or so back to Carlisle.

Over the last few days I’ve agonised over whether I should drop this walk from my itinerary. The blisters on my toes are still causing trouble and I’m conscious that in only a week I’ll be rendezvousing with Cathy and our friend, Tim Lunn, and starting the 300 km Coast to Coast. That walk is probably the highest priority of my whole safari, so I’m very anxious that it not be jeopardised.

I’ve decided to roll the dice and proceed with the plan. Having investigated all the local bus routes, I can see ways to reduce the mileage of each day and I resolve that if my feet are not improving, that’s what I’ll do.

25 June 2023 - Day 1 of Hadrian’s Wall Path: Hexham to Chollerford (13 km; 3.5h)

Today’s walking commences on the footpaths, tracks and roads that lead from the train station at Hexham to Hadrian’s Wall Path. My route will meet HWP at St Oswald’s Hill Head, about eight km’s from the station.

Not far from the start, the path cuts diagonally through the middle of a wheat field. As I enter the field, I see, on the trail, a male stripped to the waist wielding an ancient-looking scythe. It’s a warm day and as I approach I can see that he’s sweating profusely. When within earshot, I call out what I hope is a suitably friendly and appreciative greeting. Subject male stops, leans on his scythe and says “Been told by the authorities the path’s not good enough for the walkers.” I sense he doesn’t entirely agree with said authorities so respond that clearly the path was already fine but we walkers are highly appreciative of his efforts. That elicits a positive response. We chat for a while and then I thank him again on behalf of the world’s walkers, current and yet to come, and continue on my way.

I rendezvous with Hadrian’s Wall Path at St Oswald’s Church. This church was built to commemorate St Oswald’s victory at the Battle of Heavenfield which took place in the 7th century. Whilst the current church is later, there have been commemorative churches on this site since the late 7th century. A large Roman altar stone sits by the church’s font.

St Oswald’s Church is also the start of St Oswald’s Way, a 156 km walking route that goes to the the Holy Island of Lindisfarne on the Northumberland coast.

Post-church, it’s immediately obvious that I’ve hit a National Trail. The path is mown grass of test match standard (my feet cry out in joy). Signage, stiles and field gates are all of a superior standard. Remnants of Hadrian’s Wall appear almost immediately. It’s all very uplifting.

I arrive at my overnight stop of Chollerford early afternoon, meaning I’ve got time to visit the nearby Roman fort known as Chesters. Apparently, if you were a Roman soldier in the 2nd century, this was the fort to get stationed to. Picturesque location on a bend beside the River North Tyne, relatively spacious living quarters and a state of the art bath-house - what more could you want? I wander around the ruins and the associated museum for a couple of hours, enthralled by the insights into the organisation, social habits and ambition of the civilisation that so dominated Britain until early in the 5th century.

26 June 2023 - Day 2 of Hadrian’s Wall Path: Chollerford to Once Brewed (22 km; 6.0h)

Feet feel OK this morning, so pass on the bus option and head off on the stretch of HWP often nominated as the best.

Early on, I take a detour when a walker coming towards me tells me about an aggressive bull or steer in the next paddock. The previous day I’d had the experience of an unhappy steer ‘seeing me off the premises’ and I didn’t feel like starting the day with another of those experiences. An extra km or so is far preferable!

The path today couples fine scenery with fascinating Roman ruins. The scenery is enhanced by the series of crags that the wall follows. These crags run roughly east/west, so with the wall atop the crags the Romans benefitted from a cliff face to the north and a gentle decline to the south. Quite a barrier for the barbarians to overcome.

Atop Sewingshields Crags, Housesteads Crags and Whin Sill it’s very windy. There’s a coffee van at the car park for the Brocolitia fort and I ask the vendor whether today is unusually blowy. He gives me a look he probably reserves for ignorant tourists and says today is actually a very calm day in this part of the world.

Once Brewed is the tiny settlement that’s home for the night. It’s a great place to stay with a few accommodation options and the very welcoming Twice Brewed Inn. The inn’s name derives, supposedly, from a 17th century general’s dislike of the beer served to him. He apparently demanded that it be brewed again.

Milecastle 39 - the Roman Officers’ Quarters

27 June 2023 - Day 3 of Hadrian’s Wall Path: Once Brewed to Walton (27 km; 6.5h)

Yesterday’s stretch gets lots of votes for the best stretch of HWP, but so does today! Having survived yesterday without going backwards on the feet front and having loved that stretch, I decide to skip the bus option and walk the full leg today as well.

It’s another delightful day. Mild weather (though the occasional squall), reasonably easy walking and Roman surprises around every corner.

I’d met a handful of people doing the walk over the preceding two days but today I see little sign of them. It’s remarkable how the track swallows people up. You get a few day walkers in the vicinity of the car parks for the Roman forts, but it’s not unusual to walk for an hour or so without seeing anyone. For a National Trail with the profile of HWP, that surprises me.

Tonight I’m staying at Florries on the Wall at Walton. Walton is a delight and Florries equally good. It offers shared accommodation in rooms of four. It happens to be a quiet night so I score a room to myself. My wet gear is soon draped all over the place. The guest lounge/kitchen is a social place. I meet an interesting group from northern California. Some teachers and a few college kids. They’re heading the way I’ve come so I provide a few tips. One of the teachers has walked extensively. He’s done various of the camino paths to Santiago de Compostela and is very enthusiastic about them.

28 June 2023 - Day 4 of Hadrian’s Wall Path: Walton to Carlisle (19 km; 5.0h)

Hadrian’s Wall is far less evident on this section, but the walking is pleasant enough.

On the approach to Carlisle, the path crosses the M6 motorway. The speed and noise of the traffic is jarring and a literal reminder of the frantic world that I’ve been away from. However, before long the path is back beside the River Eden and the parkland that accompanies the river all the way into Carlisle.

An hour out of Carlisle the drizzle that has been with me for most of the day turns into rain and then the heavens really open. The heaviest downpour of my trip so far. Downpours in summer, when you have the right gear, are fun. Well, OK, when they last an hour or two and you know you have a comfortable place to stay that night, they’re fun!

Carlisle is a decent size - population of 100,000. It has some good attractions, including its 12th century castle, a cathedral and cathedral precinct that are both beautiful and fascinating and the Tullie House museum/gallery. With all amenities, it’s a very convenient place for a walker to recover and re-stock and that’s what I’ll be doing for a couple of days.